cherry blossom delight

ANTHONY BOURDAIN
BY LAURA VOGEL

Chef-turned-author-turned-TV-host talks about loving baby-daddyhood and the unexpected charm of places like Medellín

Anthony Bourdain is a mind-blowing multitasker. He's the host of the Travel Channel's eating-adventure show "No Reservations," author of nine books (including the best-selling culinary tell-all "Kitchen Confidential" and novels such as "Gone Bamboo"), a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and founder of the classic Park Avenue South bistro Les Halles. He spends a good deal of time away from his New York home town, but lately has one more thing to bring him back - his year-old daughter, Ariane.

Where in your world travels are you?

I am in New York for two more days. I just got back from Egypt, then I'm going to Saudi Arabia. I'm guessing a lot of lamb is in my future.

you're a damn good chef, writer and travel reporter. Do you ever get sick of yourself?

I do get sick of myself [laughs]. But the travel's good for that - when you see that there are people in the world with much more serious problems, like they don't have any clothing. Plus, I'm a dad now, so I don't really have much time for angst.

Did any destinations really surprise you?

So much of travel is subjective: some places have bad, weird vibes; some places that are supposed to be fun just haven't been for me. But often, a bad time equals good TV. However, sometimes you're just pinching yourself, a place is so great. We were just in Medellín [Colombia] - easily the best time ever. The people there are really proud, really hopeful, looking forward to a better future, just inspiring in every sense of the word. It's evidence that no matter how bad a place once was, it's possible to make it better.

You aren't afraid of anything. far too many Americans are terrified when it comes to travel, don't you think?

Very few Americans, relative to other countries, even have passports. As a country, culturally, until recently, we really forgot how to eat. We forgot that there were even chicken legs, that there were bones in anything. We bought into this notion that the great nanny state will guarantee us a pure, clean, risk-free meal, and, of course, that's no way to live at all. We kind of forgot about the good stuff.

What do you think of the chef-as-rock-star stuff?
My favorite part about the rock-star chef thing is that chefs have enough power to tell their clients: This is great food, you gotta eat this. Until recently, a lot of star chefs' menus would have been unservable. Twenty years ago, no one would eat what Batali is serving, and that's truly what Mario loves to eat. He was able to change the playing field for all of us by using that celebrity and changing the menu.

You're officially "at large" at Les Halles. Any interest in ever going back to being a chef full-time?

I went back to do a double-shift at Les Halles for the show, and I gotta say it's a young person's game - it's physically taxing. There I was, and everyone was looking at me skeptically, the new guy again. I was getting the fish-eye from the head chef, who is a guy that used to work for me in the kitchen, and he was looking at me like I was a real liability. The only thing I miss about it is the adrenalin and the rush. If I miss the food, I can cook for friends.

* "My daughter will never know a grilled cheese with the crusts cut off, that's for sure. She's going to grow up nowing that Ronald McDonald has cooties."

* I still get together with my chef friends. We'll go out to dinner, but now that I'm a member of the dad club - we talk about cholesterol counts and baby smell. I love a lot of the yakitori joints [like] Yakitori Totto. If it's a special event, I love to go to Del Posto. I'm a huge Lupa fan.

* My daughter and I are both really into the Nick Jr. show "Yo! Gabba Gabba" in a big, big way. It's an insane but reasonably creative kiddie show, really silly, and my daughter really loves it. Listen, I push that pink bugaboo with pride. Any notion of being a dad and being cool just goes right out the window. You're either on the bus or off the bus, and I'm definitely on the daddy bus.

* There's a lot of scaremongering that there might actually be dirt somewhere. People don't understand that most scientists will tell you that your sink at home is far more filthy and more likely to make you ill than the most horrifyingly septic-looking place in another country. As I often say, if there is a line of locals waiting to eat at a taco stand anywhere in Mexico, it's probably safer than eating at the Western chain. The taco stand is filled with locals, and it hasn't stayed in business by poisoning people.

* "A jerk chicken in Jamaica is something that would be absolutely shameful to miss."

* My daughter and I love to hit the swings in Carl Schurz Park (on the Upper East Side). We [also] love to hit the bookstore and the kids' section of Barnes and Noble. "Good Night, Gorilla" is my daughter's favorite book.

Attached Images

ent045a.jpg (18.2 KB, 2 views)

bsprout

Thanks for posting this! I'm a fan of Tony's and I hadn't seen this article. I enjoyed reading it. Thanks again.