texasmesquite

Published March 24, 2008
[ From Lansing State Journal ]
Bakers rise to challenge of food craftsmanship

Artisan bread
Drew Sterwald
Gannett News Service


Golden loaves of country sourdough, ciabatta and michette are stacked in baskets behind the counter at the Artisan Bread Co. in Fort Myers, Fla. The aroma of baked flour perfumes the air and triggers a Pavlovian response in anyone who walks through the door.
Ahh, fresh bread. Must have some. Now.
The late James Beard, one of the most prominent names in American cuisine, said it best: "Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of all feasts."

Artisan bread has been big for years in California, New York and other metropolitan foodie havens. Now, with chains such as Panera Bread Co. popping up all over the nation, the concept is trickling down to the mainstream. And cookbooks such as the new "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day" by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (2007, Thomas Dunne, $27.95) are helping demystify it.
"You can't believe the number of people who come in here and ask if I do bread for Costco," says Artisan Bread owner Todd Johnson, who supplies baked goods to many southwest Florida restaurants. "They sell a brand of bread that says 'artisan.' It's all machine made."
Johnson devoted a whole page on his Web site to explaining what artisan bread is: bread made by skilled craftsmen using traditional bread-baking methods from before the time of commercially manufactured yeast.
If you mix flour and water and let it stand a few days, natural strains of yeast in the air will start to ferment the dough. An artisan baker, Johnson says, can regulate the growth of the yeast and use it to leaven breads. The process takes longer than commercial methods but produces a bread with more flavor and character, he says.
Artisan breads typically have a higher water content, airier crumb, tangier flavor and a thicker, golden crust that crackles when broken.
The artisan food movement, which grew out of California in the 1970s, celebrates handcrafted products such as breads and cheeses and the produce of small farms specializing in unique varieties of greens, vegetables and fruits.
The Food Network deserves some credit for getting people excited about artisan foods made by small local companies, says Craig Ponsford, an artisan baker in Sonoma, Calif., and chairman of the Bread Bakers Guild of America, a nonprofit educational alliance.
But can a chain like Panera, with at least 1,100 locations around the United States, produce true artisan bread?
It can and it does, according to spokesman Andrew Carlson.
The bakery-cafe's stone-milled rye, French baguettes and Italian ciabatta loaves are made from fresh dough that doesn't contain chemicals or preservatives and is baked in a stone-deck oven imported from Europe. Panera bakers are trained to understand how these ingredients can be measured, mixed and timed to create a variety of tastes and textures, Carlson says.
That sits just fine with Ponsford - even though he urges supporting the local guys. He likens the artisan baker to a jeweler, glass-blower or furniture-maker.
"It's best described in thinking about the person making the bread. An artisan baker is a craftsperson who is trained to the highest ability to mix, ferment, shape and bake a handcrafted loaf of bread. They understand the science behind the chemical reactions of the ingredients," he says.
Artisan loaves give appetizers a pretty solid foundation
"A meal is only as good as the loaf of bread it's served with," says Harold Back, owner of Simply Bread, a 2-year-old artisan-bread company that provides the local bread-starved with fresh daily loaves.

Artisan breads fill another, less celebrated role: They provide the foundation for quick-and-easy party fare, or a light meal. Instead of an accompaniment, bread becomes a star ingredient.

Simply match toppings to the sweet, mild or pungent breads, and in less time than it takes to chill a bottle of wine, you can be passing the hors d'oeuvre tray. The baker has done the hard work, with the home cook simply turning bread slices into surefire crowd pleasers.

A classic baguette that graces a bowl of pasta at dinner, for example, becomes an appetizer when paired with smoked salmon, Brie and a handful of flavorings. Or top a rustic loaf of ciabatta with a goat cheese, sun-dried tomato pesto, basil and rosemary spread.

"I tell people they don't even need a recipe to make great bread appetizers," says Jeffrey Yankellow, Simply Bread's head baker, who in 2005 led the United States to first place in the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie - the Olympics of bread making - in France.

"Just keep an open mind and match the bread to the flavors."

Blue Cheese With Honey On Walnut Raisin Bread

• 1 walnut raisin loaf
• 6 ounces of Cambozola or other mild, soft blue cheese
• 1/2 cup of walnuts, toasted and chopped
• 1/4 cup mild honey
• Pomegranate seeds for garnish

» Slice the bread in 1/4-inch slices. Next, slice each in half, forming two triangles. Spread each slice of bread with a small amount of cheese. Sprinkle the walnuts on top of the cheese.

» Using a spoon, drizzle the honey on top of each piece. Arrange on a serving platter and sprinkle the pomegranate seeds around the plate. Makes 18 to 20 servings.

Source: Jeff Yankellow of Simply Bread

Smoked Salmon On Brie

• 1 classic baguette
• Extra-virgin olive oil as needed
• 6 ounces of high-quality Brie cheese
• 12 slices of smoked salmon
• 2 cups loosely packed arugula
• 3 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped
• 3 tablespoon red onion, diced fine
• Zest of 2 lemons

» Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Slice the baguette into one-fourth-inch slices and brush with olive oil. Toast in a 375-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden. After the bread cools, place a small nugget of Brie on each piece. Top with a small piece of smoked salmon.

» Toss the arugula with a very light amount of olive oil and lay on a serving platter. Place the baguette slices whimsically on top of the arugula. Sprinkle a small amount of capers, onion and lemon zest on each piece of salmon. Makes 18 to 20 servings.

Source: Jeff Yankellow of Simply Bread

Goat Cheese And Sun-Dried Tomato Spread

• 1 loaf rustic ciabatta bread
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 cup soft goat cheese
• 1/2 cup sun-dried tomato pesto
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
• 6 cherry tomatoes, sliced

» Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Slice bread into 1/4-inch thick pieces. Brush with olive oil and place on a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with rosemary. Toast in a 375-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden. Remove and let cool.

» Using a sturdy spoon or rubber spatula, blend together the cheese, pesto and milk until smooth. Spoon the cheese mixture onto the middle of a serving dish. Arrange the toast around the cheese. Finish by spreading the chopped basil and sliced tomatoes over the bread and spread. Makes 18 to 20 servings.

Source: Jeff Yankellow of Simply Bread